Auto Detailing Advice Needed

Posted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 9:55 am Post subject: Auto Detailing Advice Needed

I have a question for Dellis and others that are knowledgeable in car detailing.

My wife's car [2003 Toyota Highlander] is in need of some outside work - and by outside work I mean rubbed out and waxed. Here's the history: When I bought it new, as part of the deal I had the dealer put on the "protection package" - scotch guard on the seats and carpets and a "paint protection" on the outside. It worked well - no waxing for 5 years and the paint looks like showroom condition - with a few exceptions . Now, I am beginning to see [in places] where the paint is dull and in need of work.

My question is: how to proceed? Do I buy a good rubbing compound and spend a day rubbing out the entire vehicle, then applying a coat of good wax? When I apply the rubbing compound, will it take the rest of the "paint protection" off? Overall, the paint is still in excellent shape and I'd like to keep it that way. Any recommendations on a good wax/rubbing compound combination?

Thanks folks,

Pitt
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Posted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 11:16 am Post subject:

Yo dude...

First, there's no such thing as a "5 year paint protection". There are some products in the works that can get a few years BUT they are not your typical polymer sealants.

The protection packages you get at dealers are the same products I can get but they last, in good conditions, at the most a year which is why most of them have you come in for a "booster" every few months. In reality they are re-applying the sealant and they will do this for "X" amount of years. Your interior protection, which is really Scotch Guard, wears off really quick as friction from you and others getting in and out of the car pay a heavy toll on carpets and seats. I never give any guarantee when I apply an interior protection but just tell them to see me again in 3 to 6 months.

So your cars paint may appear to look nice, still has some shine to it but I bet if you ran your hand across the paint it would feel rather rough. You can do this test to determine just what shape your paint is in.

Run your hand over the hood (make sure the car is washed and dried first) and see if it feels rough or smooth. Then place a plastic sandwich bag over your hand and run it across the same area. Notice anything different?

I'm guessing you now feel all sorts of stuff in the paint, eh? This is because the plastic enhances your sense of touch. So what needs to be done first is to decontaminate your paint.

Clear coats do not oxidize in the traditional sense (like old single stage paints) but they do still get hazy and dull so your final results depend on proper paint prep.

You'll need a "clay bar" and some clay lubricant. These clay bars are not your typical playdough type clay as they have micro abrasives added to them which shave off paint contaminates while removing sap, overspray and tar.

You'll also need some type of paint cleanser or polish. A polish is NOT a wax but rather a mild paint cleanser with abrasives which, when used properly, will level your paint down and help remove or reduce fine scratches. The "compounds" of yesteryear are no longer used or needed with todays 2 stage paints as they are far too abrasive. Compounds of today work on abrasives designed to break down quickly when heat and friction are applied and those abrasives are also suspended in lubricating oils. This means less chance to harm the soft clear coats on many cars today and also less mess and dust.

You'll also need a nice wax or sealant. Your shine or gloss comes from polishing, not your wax. Wax gives you maybe 10% gloss or shine factor. It's main job is to be an expendable barrier between your polished paint and the environment.

If you tell me what the color is I can recommend some products to you.

Posted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 2:03 pm Post subject:

OK Dellis. I was hoping you'd give me a quick lesson. I knew none of this of course. Embarassed

So let me get this straight: Decontaminate the paint 1st with a "clay bar" and clay lubricant. I have never heard of this - can I get them at Advanced or similar auto parts store? Then apply a paint cleanser or polish. And last comes wax or sealant. Is that correct? Is the cleanser and wax done by hand? Can I use a 6" buffer I have at home? I'd appreciate any recommendations as to specific products I should look for.

Colors: I have two 03's that need this process - one is Toyota "bright white" and the other is Toyota "sandstone blue".

Thanks again for the help Dellis - I'm looking forward to getting the shine back on both vehicles.

Pitt
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Posted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 2:18 pm Post subject:

You could just drive to Texas and let Dellis do it for you. I'm sure he'd give you an uZa discount for being a forums regular. Wink

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Posted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 2:27 pm Post subject:

Pitt you can buy a Mothers Clay bar and lube at any auto parts store. Pepboys and other large chain stores come to mind.
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Posted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 4:05 pm Post subject:

Thanks Recon_Marine - as I said, I've never heard of such a thing. Hope I don't make a mess of this. LOL

fcbcynic - That's bit far from Pittsburgh. The thing'll look like crap when I got back! Smile

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Posted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 6:20 pm Post subject:

Hey Pitt, word to the wise. I screwed up and I dont want anyone else doing what I did.
First start with a very small area on a very clean car. Spray the lube that comes in the box on the clean car and use the clay bar according to directions. I did this but I guess I had something on the surface or my car wasnt clean enough because I scratched the paint big time. Luckily it was a very small area.
Good luck.
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Posted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 7:54 pm Post subject:

Ditch the clay lube and just use the clay bar with a mixture of your own clay lube.

Mix a few drops of car shampoo into a 32oz spray bottle filled with water. This makes an excellent clay lube.

The whole idea behind claying your car is to remove and/or shave off paint contaminates. So the usual steps would be:

1) clean wheels and tires.
2) wash body, from top to bottom
3) if you like you can clay the car now. After washing rinse the car then clay the paint while it's wet.
4) dry the paint, glass and wheels.
5) polish paint
6) seal paint

Thats the steps in a nutshell, although the exact applications and process is much more detailed for each step. Your goal in claying is to NOT press hard on the clay but rather allow it to glide over the paint with just a slight amount of "grab". Too much lube then the clay cannot do its job. Too little lube and you may get some marring, as ReconMarine noted.

So if you decide to clay after washing you'll want to clay one area at a time, for example just do the fender, dry it and move on to the door.

Since one car is white in color you should be able to get away with a clay session and then an all-in-one type product which cleans, polishes and protects your paint in one application.

I'm not sure about over the counter products but usually Mother's, Meguairs and 3M are good products. I sell some products which are professional products that I use exclusively and if you wanted to use those I would recommend the PoliSeal and Optimum Spray Wax.

www.shop.ultimatereflections.com

You can use your orbital polisher but whattype of pads do you have for it and also what make is it?
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Posted: Wed Feb 06, 2008 9:43 am Post subject:

I have a small 6" Craftsman buffer from Sears. It has two types of pads - a blue "applicator" pad and a couple of buffing pads that are white and "stringy".
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Build a man a fire, and he'll be warm for a day. Set a man on fire, and he'll be warm for the rest of his life.

Posted: Wed Feb 06, 2008 10:01 am Post subject:

Put a large sheet of plastic on the floor for when you keep dropping the clay bar.As all the crap on the floor sticks to it then scratches your paint.I kept dropping mine Sad

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Posted: Wed Feb 06, 2008 1:22 pm Post subject:

LOL - thanks Ren Smile

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